Behind the build

From brief to on set: how a costume gets built

The seven steps every Designman build runs through, and why the order matters. A look at how a hero costume goes from an awkward first conversation to the last shot of the day.

By Nikhil Sharma3 min read
Inside the Designman workshop

Every build in this workshop runs through the same seven steps, whether it is a single hero suit or a full department for a series. The order never changes, because each step exists to catch a problem before it becomes expensive.

1. Brief

Character, plot, action, schedule and budget. We ask the awkward questions early: how many duplicates, how many shoot days, does it need to survive a stunt, who has to get into it and how fast.

2. Concept and sketch

Multiple directions as sketches and mood references, narrowed down with the director or the brand. Nothing gets cut or cast until a direction is agreed.

3. 3D and render

Approved directions are modelled and rendered so everyone is looking at the same suit before any material is committed. This is where silhouette arguments get settled cheaply.

4. Prototype

Parts or whole pieces are prototyped to surface the problems that only appear on a body: fit, weight, range of movement, heat, and how the piece reads under a lens.

5. Fabrication

Materials are procured or made in-house. Depending on the piece this pulls in 3D printing, CNC, casting and moulding, textile lamination, laser cutting, foam fabrication or specialised knitting, with quality control at every step.

6. Fitting

On the performer, under movement, with the stunt team where relevant. Adjustments happen here, not on set, because a shoot day is the most expensive place to discover a problem.

7. On set

Dressing, repairs and duplicates. We stay until the last shot is in, because screen costume is never really finished until the camera stops.

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